Letter From Hawaii-Surf Punks

[ti:Letter From Hawaii] [ar:Surf Punks] [al:My Beach] [by:] [offset:0] [00:01.28]Letter From Hawaii - Surf Punks [00:02.16]Written by：D. Dragon [00:02.74] [00:08.92]This is a factual letter from Hawaii the names of [00:13.02]The spots have been changed to protect the locals [00:15.01] [00:16.55]Howzit bruddah [00:17.55] [00:18.67]Peter and I went out to hana bay last Wednesday [00:21.17] [00:21.91]It was a perfect six foot down the line and [00:24.09]Crowded I went out at sugar shack which was five [00:27.17]Foot and semi closing out it was fun a little [00:30.77]Better and faster than that first day we went out [00:33.22]But definitely not as juicy as the last longboard larry [00:36.67]And amazing mike paddled out the sets were ok but [00:39.92]It was a long time between waves three days ago [00:43.05]Was the biggest swell of the year animal and I [00:46.23]Drove to hana bay but it was twenty foot and [00:48.95]Unrideable whitewater everywhere we drove back to cracks and it [00:53.13]Was five to six foot with three guys out they [00:55.76]Paddled in and I talked to them in the morning [00:58.29]They said it was three foot when I first got [01:00.57]There it was five to six foot J P drove [01:03.60]Up and we both decided to go out and we [01:05.57]Saw an eight to ten foot set break across the [01:07.76]Bay n body was out and we started paddling out [01:10.70]When easily ten foot wave break across [01:12.95]The channel while waiting for a set of at least [01:15.52]Six waves to stop I started getting sucked out to [01:18.13]The point on the right in a river riptide I [01:20.17] [01:20.95]Paddled back to the beach realizing that it was peaking [01:23.67]Or still getting bigger j p paddled out caught two [01:27.04]Waves and came in as it was too freaky and [01:29.41]Hard to line up with n body out about an [01:31.88]Hour later it got really crowded and cleaned up a [01:34.18]Bit jerry mopehead went out so I took pictures of [01:37.43]Him and max and a lot of other hotties one [01:40.18]Guy got washed up on the rocks below me he [01:44.98]Was lucky at least the rip didn't drag him out [01:47.54]To sea cords were useless they snapped like peanut brittle [01:51.34]I heard the second ditch at ammunition dump was good [01:54.08]On Sunday also that the left near the sewage treatment [01:57.90]Plant which rarely breaks was good well that's enough news [02:01.81]For now gotta get back in the water [02:03.73] [02:05.01]Aloha [02:05.25] [02:06.48]P S don't come over here [02:08.50] [02:10.19]I wonder why I said that